Will Soos & group in his garden at Durnamuck

The Far North & Orkney

2408 | 11 to 19 July | 9 days | maximum number 10

This tour includes visits to The Castle of Mey, Inverewe Gardens, Blair Castle, Dunrobin Castle, Cawdor Castle, Dundonnell House, Durnamuck, House of Gruinard, The Orkney Islands & its Neolithic and other historic attractions, Old Allangrange, Strathnaver Museum of the Highland Clearances, a boat trip to the Summer Isles and more…

Ancient peoples in ancient landscapes…

Welcome to the Far North of Scotland, its vast landscapes, spectacular coastlines and its warm and genuine hospitality and welcome too, to The Orkney Islands, an archipelago of some 70 islands lying off the north-eastern tip of Scotland. Orkney brings a particular and extraordinary dimension to this tour, and we have two full days exploring its unique and daily-unfolding heritage.

As much as anything, this tour is a scenic adventure, a progress around the very top of Britain, visiting stunning gardens in breathtaking locations, learning something of its heritage, and enjoying a good deal of warm and genuine Highland hospitality.

Prices

Per person, sharing

2,950 GBP | 4,130 USD | 3.245 EUR | 35.400 SEK

Prices, per person, sharing a double or twin room

Per person, single occupancy

3,590 GBP | 5,026 USD | 3.949 EUR | 43.080 SEK

Prices, per person, for the single occupancy of a double room

Prices, reservations & payments

Please read the Prices, reservations & payments section in the Information & FAQs page and the comments in the additional tour information below the tour itinerary.

Itinerary

Scroll down to see Additional Tour Information – sleeping and eating, general information and a tour area maps

Cawdor Castle

D1 Thursday, 11 July

Tim will collect you from the Hampton by Hilton hotel at Edinburgh Airport, from where we drive north, crossing the Forth of Firth to Dunkeld, for a short break in this attractive and historic town, reputedly one of the best-preserved historic towns in Scotland, grabbing a coffee and cake from Aran, a well-known local bakery.

We continue north for an afternoon at Cawdor Castle, the late 14th century, built as a private fortress by the Thanes of Cawdor. We will arrive in time for lunch and have the afternoon exploring both the castle and its gardens. Three separate gardens, which include large herbaceous borders, collections of rhododendrons, flowering trees and shrubs and archways of rambling roses and laburnum.

It’s only a 15-minute drive from Cawdor Castle to Nairn and our hotel, The Golf View, where we’ll arrive in good time to check in and relax before a stroll along the promenade for dinner at Sundancer, a highly-regarded local eatery famous for its seafood.

Today’s driving is approx. 170 miles/270 km

Dundonnell House

D2 Friday, 12 July

We cross Scotland from the east coast to the west, for a private visit to the House of Gruinard, the most idyllically situated of houses, where head gardener, Fiona Clark, will show us around this amazing seaside and riverside garden.

We will stop for photographs across Little Loch Broom and stop, too, at the Dundonnell Hotel for some lunch, before a second private visit, to Dundonnell House, where Will Soos, head gardener and former head gardener at Inverewe, will conduct us around this magnificent garden. We visited Dundonnell for the first time in July 2018 and it immediately became everyone's favourite garden. It is, essentially, a glorious walled garden dominated by a wonderful, ancient yew tree and Will's very clever gardening.

We will stop once more, at the Corrieshalloch Gorge to see the Falls of Measach, before arriving in Ullapool and our hotel, The Ceilidh Place, in good time to check in and relax before drinks and dinner at the hotel.

Today’s driving is approx. 130 miles/210 km

Durnamuck

D3 Saturday, 13 July

There are not many roads in these parts, so we start the day retracing some of yesterday’s journey to Durnamuck, the garden of Will Soos and his wife, Sue, for coffee and a tour of their sensational garden set in stunning surroundings overlooking Little Loch Broom – forgive the superlatives, but it’s all true!

And then to Inverewe for lunch and the afternoon exploring the gardens created in 1862 by Osgood Mackenzie on the estate his mother bought for him. Sitting on the eastern shore of Loch Ewe, Inverewe was given to the National Trust for Scotland in 1952 by Osgood's daughter, Mairi Sawyer, and the garden, today, covers some 50 acres/20 ha. It is a botanical garden noted for the breadth of its collection of over 2,500 exotic plants and flowers, including the most northerly planting of rare Wollemi trees.

Late in the afternoon, we’ll explore some of Loch Ewe and its fascinating history during WW2 before dinner at the Badachro Inn, a place where Sofia and I first visited with four young children in 2006!

Today’s driving is approx. 130 miles/210 km

Ullapool on Loch Broom

D4 Sunday, 14 July

Today is a day of leisure and relaxation, enjoying a boat trip to the Summer Isles with Seascape Expeditions and a lazy afternoon exploring Ullapool and, just perhaps, time for an afternoon nap!

The Summer Isles is a group of about 20 islands, rocks and skerries off the Coigach peninsula. There is an RSPB reserve and the islands are home to seals, otters and seabirds, including over 2000 breeding pairs of storm petrels. The largest island, Tanera Mor, is some 800 acres/300 ha and is the only island permanently inhabited. In the 18th century it was the centre of a thriving herring fishing industry, and many centuries before that its sheltered harbour was home to Vikings.

We don’t yet know if our boat trip will be in the morning or in the afternoon, but whenever it is we will meet at our hotel for drinks and dinner.

Looking north across Loch Laver

D5 Monday, 15 July

Picnics packed, we leave Ullapool for an epic journey through the stunning mountain landscape of northern Scotland. Driving north, our first stop is Lairg, a popular village on the shores of Loch Shin, where we’ll have coffee at the Pier Cafe. Continuing north, along Strath Vagastie to Loch Laver, stopping for photos and to stretch our legs along the route, we’ll find somewhere fitting for our picnic lunch, then continue, along Strath Laver until we emerge at the north coast, at Bettyhill.

We’ll visit Strathnaver Museum, a museum largely dedicated to the Highland Clearances (see below), before our coastal drive east, for the statutory group photograph at John O'Groats. It's then time for the late afternoon, one-hour crossing to Orkney from Gills Bay with Pentland Ferries, and to The Lynfield, our home for the next three nights, where we plan to arrive in good time for drinks and dinner.

Today’s driving is approx. 170 miles/270 km

Broch of Gurness

D6 Tuesday, 16 July

We start the day aboard the Hoy Head ferry to visit the recently reopened Scapa Flow Museum, the award-winning museum charting Orkney’s military involvement in the First and Second World Wars.

Returning to Mainland, Orkney’s largest island, we’ll visit the Broch of Gurness, an impressive Iron Age complex and one of the most outstanding examples of a later prehistoric settlement in Scotland, and the Brough of Birsay, a tidal island, reached by a causeway, with Pictish, Norse and medieval remains.

Then to Kirkwall, Orkney's administrative centre, in the late afternoon for a stroll around and to visit the majestic St Magnus Cathedral.

Finally, we drive just to the southwest of Kirkwall, for dinner at The Foveran, overlooking Scapa Flow.

Today’s driving is approx. 60 miles/100 km

The Ness of Brodgar complex

The Ness of Brodgar site has been under excavation since 2004, revealing a massive complex of monumental Neolithic buildings dating from the centuries around 3000 BC. Without parallel in Atlantic Europe, the Ness of Brodgar’s three-hectare site is filled with huge stone structures containing spectacular finds.

These have made the Ness one of the most important archaeological excavations in the world today, changing our understanding of the culture and beliefs of Neolithic Orkney and shining a new light on the prehistory of northern Europe. 2024 will mark the end of the seasonal digs and the excavations will be permanently backfilled.

The project is mainly funded through the generosity of the public through two supporting charities the Ness of Brodgar Trust and the American Friends.

Ring of Brodgar

D7 Wednesday, 17 July

Our second day on Orkney is devoted to exploring the Heart of Neolithic Orkney, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, comprising excavations at the Ness of Brodgar, the principal Neolithic monuments nearby and the settlement at Skara Brae, together with a number of other burial, ceremonial and settlement sites – it is a most significant prehistoric landscape, depicting life on this archipelago some 5,000 years ago.

Our itinerary is largely determined by the timings of escorted tours and guided walks of some of the attractions, but in whichever order we do it, we will visit Skara Brae, the best-preserved Neolithic settlement in Western Europe, and a thriving village long before Stonehenge or the Egyptian pyramids were even conceived, and the astonishing excavations at the Ness of Brodgar, where we shall have the services of one of the archaeologists to act as a guide. We will walk around the Ring of Brodgar and take an escorted visit to Maeshowe Chambered Cairn, one of Europe's finest chambered tombs. It is a full and fascinating day, glimpsing, as we shall, the life of our ancestors some fifty centuries ago.

We return to The Lynnfield for drinks and dinner.

Today’s driving is approx. 60 miles/100 km

Dunrobin Castle

D8 Thursday, 18 July

Our last visit, before we leave Orkney on the mid-morning ferry, is to the Italian Chapel, two utility Nissen huts transformed into a beautiful chapel by Italian prisoners of war.

On to St Margaret’s Hope for the ferry to Gills Bay and then a short drive to the Castle of Mey, the private Scottish residence of the late Queen Mother, for lunch and an early afternoon visit to the house and gardens. Built by the 4th Earl of Caithness, in 1573, the castle was improved by the 12th Earl in 1819 and bought by The Queen Mother in 1952 who, in turn, renovated the castle, its garden and grounds. The great treat, when visiting the castle, is being conducted around by some of the Queen Mother's former staff, all of whom talk of her with great fondness.

We continue south, along the North Sea for company, for a brief visit to Dunrobin Castle, the seat of the Dukes of Sutherland, and easily the largest house in northern Scotland. The current house, inspired by French châteaux with a Victorian twist, sits high above steep terraces, leading to two parterres, each laid out around circular fountains.

And finally, to Kincraig Castle Hotel, where we can relax over drinks and enjoy our end-of-tour dinner.

Today’s driving is approx. 130 miles/210 km

Old Allangrange

D9 Friday, 19 July

We would usually head straight to the airport at this point, but we have all day and two more visits, firstly a private visit to Old Allangrange, the home and garden of our good friend JJ Gladwin. JJ embraces organic and no-dig gardening principles and her kitchen garden is something to behold.

We’ll have a guided walk around her garden and a coffee, before continuing south for a lunch-stop visit to Blair Castle, the ancestral seat of the Dukes of Atholl. We’ll have time to visit the Hercules Garden, a nine-acre walled garden, named for the life-sized statue of Hercules overlooking the garden. It has been beautifully restored to its original Georgian design and is famous for its lily pond and Chinese bridge.

It’s about a two-hour drive from Blair Castle to Edinburgh Airport, where the tour ends and where we plan to be by 17.00/5 pm.

If you are staying in the UK and don't need, or wish, to return to Edinburgh, then please let us know your onward travel plans, so that we may assist you in getting to your next destination.

Today’s driving is approx. 190 miles/300 km

Little Loch Broom

Additional tour information

Sleeping & eating

Clearly, it is not possible to progress around the north of Scotland without moving from place to place and we stay in four establishments – one night, three nights, three nights and one night.

We spend the first night on the Moray Coast, in Nairn, at the Golf View Hotel, a very comfortable hotel we use on our Castles & Gardens tour.

The next three nights are on the west coast, in Ullapool, at The Ceilidh Place, a wonderful establishment which we have stayed at several times, and one that I particularly enjoy – not least for its lovely residents' lounge and its great range of local beers!

On Orkney, we spend three nights in Kirkwall, Orkney’s chief town, at the Lynnfield Hotel, a hotel we first used in 2022, and which we thoroughly enjoyed – lovely staff, good food and very comfortable rooms.

Our last night of the tour is at Kincraig Castle Hotel, a little bit of luxury to round the tour off, that and it’s in exactly the right place!

We dine at our hotels on all but three evenings, on our first night, when we’ll walk along Nairn’s promenade to the ever-popular Sundancer, the middle evening in Ullapool, when we dine at the Badachro Inn, where I first ate in 2006 and, finally, on the middle evening on Orkney, at The Foveran, the best restaurant on Orkney and certainly the one with the best views.

Picnics

Finding somewhere for lunch isn’t always very easy in these parts, so please don’t be too surprised if you are suddenly presented with a list of sandwiches to choose from! Made up by our hotels, they are included in the price of the tour.

The gardens

Despite its remoteness and its northerly latitudes, the Far North has a surprising number of excellent gardens, and we will take you to a selection of the very best ones – a range of gardens encompassing different styles and sizes.

As ever, when we plan tours in Scotland, we are indebted to Kenneth Cox and his wonderful book Scotland for Gardeners, without which, our tours would be much the poorer.

Equally, the charitable organisation Scotland's Gardens has a very useful website.


Four things to know…

The itinerary for this tour tends to be more flexible than for other tours, not least because, on the west coast, we visit several private gardens, the times for which may change, and, on Orkney, we alter the itinerary to suit timed tours etc and to avoid the larger cruise liners (Orkney is or was the world’s third most popular cruise liner destination!).

Secondly, there is no hiding the fact that there’s a lot of driving on this tour, and some of the drives are quite long. We do our best to break long journeys with stops for photos, to stretch our legs and for refreshment, but please bear this in mind.

We recommend that you visit the Orkneyjar website, for cultural information, and Orkney.com for tourist information.

Finally, we chose the Hampton by Hilton Hotel at Edinburgh Airport as our departure point because of its proximity to the airport, because it affords customers, who are not staying at the hotel, a comfortable environment in which to wait and, unlike some of the airport hotels, I can park and load the minibus safely.

The Highlands

The Highlands is a vast, sparsely populated area with a few, mostly single-track roads, crossing remote and wild landscapes. It is stunningly beautiful, with huge, strange-shaped mountains, remote lochs and enormous skies – this is truly the Highlands, not just an ill-defined area on a map, but a mindset and a way of life.


The Clearances

A little understanding of the Highland Clearances, the seminal event of late-18th and early-19th century Scottish history will not go amiss, and it is also worth noting that Sutherland, this most northerly region, is so named because it was the 'southern land' of the Norse raiders and settlers!


Neolithic Orkney

Some 5,000 years ago, the prehistoric people of the Orkney Islands began building extraordinary monuments out of stone. Each of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney sites is a masterpiece of design and construction and, together, they represent one of the richest surviving Neolithic landscapes in Western Europe.

2024 marks the end of the traditional seasonal digs and the Ness of Brodgar excavations will be backfilled and the site closed down, though research will continue.

A superb three-part BBC series, 'Britain's Ancient Capital: Secrets of Orkney', was screened in the UK in 2017 and if you are able to watch it*, I heartily recommend it.

*It is now no longer available on the BBC, but search Britain's Ancient Capital: Secrets of Orkney and it can be found on Vimeo and on YouTube.

 The whole area tour map

The Orkney Islands tour map

Picnic time

Bedrooms & upgrades

We will generally book standard rooms (however described) for the group, although these may vary from room to room in the hotel.

Single travellers
Single travellers will have their own room, typically a ‘smaller’ double room or, very occasionally, a twin room.

Upgrades
If you would like to upgrade your room, please look at the hotel’s website and then contact us to enquire as to availability.

2022 group at John o’Groats

“Adderley Travel does the most superb small group tours. Personable, well curated experiences including the lovely hotels and dining choices, some larger castles and gardens but many other small private gardens that he has developed relationships with over the years...”

— Gloria Buckley, US, July 2022

Joining instructions

The meeting arrangements, as outlined in Day 1 of the itinerary, above, will be confirmed by email some 8-weeks before the tour.

NB. Where we specify a hotel as the meeting point, it is because of the hotel’s location, the ease of access to it for the minibus and because it affords customers, who are not staying at the hotel, a comfortable and secure environment in which to wait. It is not because we endorse the hotel.

Useful links

Click here for some useful links to other websites, notably websites of our national and regional tourism, heritage, horticultural, cultural organisations, and travel and transport websites.

Please let us know if any website links are dysfunctional. Thank you.

Accuracy & faithfulness

We try to be as accurate as we can, when describing our itineraries, and as faithful to the itinerary as we can, when undertaking the tour, but changes do occur, either necessarily or unavoidably.

Acknowledgements

We would like to acknowledge the assistance of the many guide books and websites we use in planning our tours. Thank you.